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Lefkara – Lazanias

Distance: 56 km

Elevation: 1630 m

An out and back to this tiny, hidden village secluded in the hills.

A short ride with a decent amount of elevation, this out and back shows off views of the mountain from both sides. From the popular village of Lefkara, over the top of Kionia and wiggling towards a hidden village it is a peaceful, scenic, almost meditative route.

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Leaving Lefkara there isn’t much respite, a couple of km and then the climbing begins. Above are blue skies, the air is crisp and clear, and the patches of sun appreciated. The first section lasts about 11km and gains 500+m, with various 10% sections getting me out of the saddle and keeping me warm. Older men with sticks rifle through the damp, roadside undergrowth in search of foraged goods, most likely snails. The sticks, knocking greenery aside and prodding around, seem to aid both walking as well as finding. Hardly a car passes, it’s just me, a dog’s bark in the distant, birdsong and my thoughts. Beautiful.

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Swinging through the sharp right in Vavatsinia, and onto the short 10% ramp, a small, yappy dog appears. Brilliant timing! Maybe it was the noise of my pedal unclipping but it stops short, allowing me to carry on. The distinctive smell of pine becomes prevalent although there are also odd, wild olive trees around. From here is another 7km, with 450 vertical metres. It is also the point that this ride becomes an out and back and not what I planned. Time is my master and in slowing down, taking notes and photographs, I won’t be able to achieve what I set out too. For a few minutes I try to sulk about it, but the views and the place don’t let me. It is what it is. Each side is unique, so while I don’t usually enjoy out and back rides, this one doesn’t actually feel like it.

 

Over the top I add a jacket to my layers, its warming and bright, but not warm enough for several kilometres descending. Like the roads, the picnic site is deserted, I enjoy the tranquillity for a moment and try (terribly) to take photographs of the sun bursting between the trees.

Approx 5km below, at the left before the monastery I spot Lazanias in the distant. Under the peaks of distant hills, tiny and all alone, hanging onto the hillside, a collection of buildings surrounded by trees and wild land. Blink and you’d miss it. The sound of cockerels carries through the air as I drop lower for another 5km or so.

 

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Arriving in the village, amongst ramshackle buildings, there’s barely a sound. With a population below 10 (rising only periodically due to agritourism) you’d expect nothing else. I sit by the water tap, located by the tavern that’s only open on Sundays. As far as I know the water is good to drink, and as you’d expect there’s no kiosk here, so bottles are refilled. I’ll have two minutes listening to the birds, soaking it all in I think. That’s when the strimmer starts up. It’s still a nice moment, honestly.

 

A sign reads ‘Dangerous, narrow road’ at a turning, more a cobbled alleyway than road, I love it. Many buildings are derelict with various age and weather damage. Some are traditionally restored aiming to be a part of the agritourism movement. It’s a real mish-mash. A sign points to the ‘Cyprus Recorder workshop’, something else I’m sure that is unique about this spot. There’s a possible raincloud blowing over the mountain directly ahead of the village, so I need to get going and climb it.

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Of course, returning is simply reversal, although from a different direction the perspective changes greatly. Beginning with a slight drop to the lowest point over the river, careful not to slip on the damp hairpin. I wendle towards the 12th century Macharias monastery, firstly through dense pine trees which gradually reduce as the road hugs the side of the hill. Looking left, Lazanias is rapidly in the distance. It’s a stunning spot, but how practical would it be to stay there, never mind live there? The closest kiosk/cafe must be at least 5km and in-between is nothingness. In some ways it sounds perfect, in others, a logistical nightmare. I’m sure I’ll have a fanciful peek at estate agents virtual windows at some point with the village in mind.

 

Above the monastery I take on the next 4km, lifting me another 300m. A much greyer, more bare side of the hill with lower lying scrub dominating the hillside and valley. Towards the top I look back. There’s something about looking back on these roads, tracing the squiggly line of the road ridden and being floored by the height gained. At the picnic site I choose to head up an access road to gain a few more km and even higher views. It doesn’t disappoint, the sea off the North coast being visible today.

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With a jacket back on for the descent I head down. Along the way, the road allows views for miles around. The land is a real time relief map and fascinating to view. And its human interventions are equally intriguing. Odd buildings in what appear to be inaccessible spots. A reservoir. An entire village. Tracks cut through woodland. I cruise back to Lefkara looking forward to warmth and a quick internet search for property for sale, Lazanias.

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