Honey Villages
Distance: 62 km
Elevation: 1582 m
A sweet ride taking in the honey villages of Cyprus.
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This ride explores the honey villages of Cyprus, painfully squeezing in related words wherever possible. Hovering a little over 60km with around 1600m elevation it takes in the nine lower mountainous villages, all of which are identified as honey villages via a project set up in 2019 to promote tourism in these areas.
I start in Pano Lefkara – the big Lefkara, the main one - in the main car park and wriggle my way through the bottom of the maze-like town. If you stick to the road (I use this term loosely) main alleyway is a better description it leads onto a quiet wriggly road which takes me down into Kato Lefkara. Kato Lefkara, the first honey village, is definitely the poor relation to Pano in terms of tourism, however, it is much quieter and sedate and calmer. And in many ways, preferable. Sometimes being popular isn’t a great thing! There are many pretty buildings and it is surrounded by an array of wildland, full of nectar rich plants I’m sure. It’s a short but noticeable climb to the main road before descending into Kato Drys.
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The descent into Kato Drys is long and sweeping, the views to the coastline, impressive and exhilarating. Riding through Kato Drys showcases an array of traditional buildings, some dilapidated with shutters hanging at odd angles, others lovingly cared for. The road, unfortunately is in the dilapidated category, there’s a bit of shake, rattle and roll through the village passing the ‘Kafeneios’ with the occupants taking the world at a much more sedate and possibly sensible pace sharing the odd nod or greeting.
Leaving the village downhill opens the view to beyond of wild land and small villages to see. The descent gives another couple of easy kilometres to enjoy before a steady rise up towards Vavla. Passing the Agios Minas monastery it’s easy to understand why people find places such as this spiritual, its calm, serene and peaceful, although gradually uphill. Birdsong fills the air with chaffinches and robins dominating while a less common a meadow pipit is noted and enjoyed.
Beekeeping and honey are part of the economy for all of these villages, some at commercial level, many at back-yard level and I spot a small array of blue and white beehives on the hillside. There are many more to spot along the way. I pass Ecophysis, a family business which has made a great job of promoting care of bees as well various family-based activities around beekeeping and honey. Plus, their homemade honey pancakes are delicious.
The village of Vavla is surrounded by fields of wildflowers, clusters of thyme, carob and olive trees. My aim to ride through its cobbled streets is thwarted by a road closure, so I fly around the edge on this occasion and after a steep exit ramp I turn right onto the E133 towards Lageia.
Lageia (spelt in various ways), population, 28. I pass through this tiny, tranquil village noting the wooden Layia Village Crafts sign hanging appropriately peacefully. One of the craft workshops offered is making bee hotels to take home for the garden. On a larger scale, several of these villages have bee hotels the size of a telephone box that have been created here.
The next 8km are rolling, it’s hard not to smile with the views on offer. Approaching Ora is a slight gradient, finally bringing me in-between two hilly lumps and giving me a view of the village via a honeycomb frame. Another village with a hilly backdrop, and for now stern looking clouds in the distance. Left into the village and past the café I head towards Akapnou and Eptagonia aiming for the F124. These villages aren’t on the ‘official’ honey route, my rebellion is simply to make the ride more of a loop and to enjoy these peaceful roads past a venetian bridge, alongside a river and past fruit laden orange trees. Definitely worth it.
Turning right onto the E109 (becomes the F123) I head towards Melini, the skies now bluer. A buzzard hangs above for a short time which I appreciate, it saves me cursing this disheartening false flat which gradually increases from Honey Hill into Melini. Another traditional village with stone houses, a bee themed playpark and some wonderfully kept gardens with vibrant coloured flowers.
Heading left onto the E920 takes me towards Odou, another 300m or so higher. Don’t trust the signs here, 4km, 5km, 4km, they tell you, all within a few hundred metres! Find a rhythm and enjoy the climb, the first 2km are gradual, the next 3 km tougher. The climb has some nice switchbacks allowing me to look back and appreciate the ascent, I always love that feeling. The views get better and better. Much of this area is involved in growing fruit and vegetables. The village is renowned for it’s tomato production and evidence is all around from polytunnels, piles of last years plants rotting to the squished roadkill that fell from the crates. There’s an oldish bloke ahead about to climb onto the hillside, shotgun over his shoulder. I gently offer a greeting, keen to avoid spooking him and his trigger-happy finger but equally keen to make him aware of my presence. He acknowledges with a wave, I assume his silence is to enable stealth mode upon some unsuspecting animal.
The village has an information path all about bees as well as a small café. Odou hosts the honey festival each June, when crowds swarm (groan!) the area and get to see and try a variety of bee related products. There is also a variety of bee themed outdoor furniture dotted around to help enjoy the views.
I turn back on myself to enjoy some free kilometres. Should you follow this ride, watch out for the old bloke in the battered, red Mitsubishi pick up. After completing his 3 point turn on a bend he may pull out on you, then weave across the road whilst lighting his cigarette, then with a nicotine steadied hand use his phone. All before simply pulling up at the side of the road with no indication whatsoever! Better to laugh than cry/get mad.
Back to the F123, then left and left again onto a single lane track opposite a small plot of olive trees. These kind of set ups, of which there are many around, seem to be a larger equivalent to the English allotment. Often with a variety of fruit and nut trees, usually with beehives, and always with a chair for the fortunate owner to sit in, soak it all in and relax. I spot plots for sale signs along the way, I dream…
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It’s 3km to the next village, Agioi Vavatsinias, and only 150m or so climbing. Unfortunately, most of this gradient seems to be within a few hundred metres, shortly below the village where the percentage easily hits double figures. Should that not be enough of a challenge, this is a village renowned for it’s ‘zivania’. A glass or two will certainly revive you momentarily. Like most of these villages there is a water tap here which is prominent and perfect for the thirsty cyclist, especially in the summer months.
Again, I navigate the cobbled streets before leaving the village and turning left up another cheeky little climb. Again, this is a quiet road linking the villages. It’s several lovely km riding bumbling along. The recent storms have brought down many branches and some smaller trees as well as caused a landslip, however, the JCB operator sees me, stops work and beckons me across the debris which I appreciate. Naturally I also have to take a photograph. Vavatsinias is so called after the Mulberry bush which it is renowned for, I don’t spot any in the wild but there are several lining the main road once I’ve waggle-danced my way through the village and its cobbles. This, the home of the humming bee trail full of bee friendly plants is the final honey village on the route. It is simply a case of rolling (mostly) back down to Lefkara. This is not a sting in the tale moment but the opposite, just as I’m about to leave the village I spot the Buzzzzz café. Closed at present but with a beautiful hand-painted sign of a bee, I can’t resist taking a photograph before I buzz off.
