Majestic Monasteries Loop
Distance: 81 km
Elevation: 1679 m
A ride connecting two of Cyprus most iconic monasteries via an almost (forgotten) British Cemetery.
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Covering just over 80km and just under 1700m of climbing this ride links two iconic spots in Cyprus. It is a perfect day out exploring for someone who enjoys seeing the world by two wheels. Stavrovouni, the oldest recorded monastery on the island overlooks Larnaca from its hilltop position. Whilst Macharias is located deep in the heart of the Machairas forest on Mount Kionia. It also visits a small piece of almost forgotten British history along the way.
From the bottom of Stavrovouni, the first 2 km are alongside the quarry. The overnight autumn rain means mud, mud and more mud. When not so damp, its dust, dust and more dust. Neither are appealing but it is a short, necessary section I take it slowly, slowly.
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Onto the B1 then the E143 and the mud and damp all but leaves my tyres, the frame and my legs I’ll have to clean later. Soon it’s a right-hand turn, onto a road which isn’t numbered or obviously named. If you’re following this route then it’s just after a speed bump, there’s a house being built on the corner, in front of this is a man on the ground working on his aged and battered car, standard cigarette hanging from his lips. Alternatively, follow the GPX file here.
With Stavrovouni now firmly in the rear-view mirror I pedal towards Sia, past the smatterings of olive groves and farmsteads, and under the birdsong of the serin.
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The gradient into Sia is noticeable but only for a short time, beyond, there is a slight gradient for some time which allows me to admire the views. Much of this area was once mined which explains some of the landscape, however, much is planted now and the road weaves its way into Mathiatis merrily.
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I take the E103 heading to the location named on Google maps as ‘The Forgotten British Cemetery’. Turns out to be an apt name for the tiny cemetery I spot from the roadside. Under the shade of eucalyptus trees and surrounded by broken down walls it now sits peacefully in the midst of a ploughed field. With only one grave remaining, the cemetery is a nod to the earliest days of British forces in Cyprus. After arriving in the blazing summer of July 1878, the Commander-in-Chief soon moved troops to this area to set up a winter garrison and reduce the heat linked illnesses. Thus, a camp was built in Mathiatis from August 1878. The grave is researched in the book ‘Who was Sapper Brown?’ It concludes that it is that of Private David Splain who died in September 1878. There are no recent records of this cemetery, no ownership, only a broken headstone remains at the site. Rupert Brooke’s poem ‘The Soldier’ could not be more accurate in this case.
Following the F902 towards Kataliontas the road rolls along, the sun is warm with few clouds in the sky, hills are all around, the road is quiet and sprouts of growth are filling the verges. At the end of the road, a left, then almost immediate right puts me back onto another unnamed road. This marks the start of the 17km climb to Machairas monastery.
The lower hills are open and views are expansive across fields, towards mountains in the distance. The climbing begins gently building up as it approaches the village Kapedes 4km in. The road weaves and snakes around and is wide enough for a car to not need to knock you off when passing.
Crossing the roundabout takes me into the next section as I begin to become enclosed by pine trees, the shade and the scent welcome for now. The road isn’t a constant gradient and I enjoy any spots of respite. Two joggers pass with huge grins, a wave and a ‘Hi!’ I respond in kind in-between mouthfuls of jelly beans.
The picnic site arrives and I head into the last 8 km where the gradient does pitch up more often. The roads wriggle beautifully around and despite the effort required I have a huge smile. These roads are great to ride. Nearing the peak dark clouds begin to form. The sun and clouds play games with shadows, colours and beams of sunlight keeping me entertained for the last km or so before dropping down to the monastery.
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Machairas sits on the slopes, it was built in the 12th century following the discovery of an icon of the virgin Mary who it is dedicated to. Inside the Greek Orthodox monastery monks live their self-sufficient loves by religious teachings. Icons adorn the walls of the main church as well as many priceless religious artefacts. By the entrance is a tap, useful for refilling water bottles, although not guaranteed to give special powers. The best views of the monastery are from above so I pedal back to find the best photo spot. I also consider how I ‘need’ a drone.
The skies are now darker and threatening, and the temperature has dropped so a moment invested in putting on my jacket is taken. After this it is a case of rolling all the way back down to the picnic site taking care of any debris on the roads. At the picnic spot I bear right towards Lythrodontas. There is a short gravel section on this stretch of road, take it easy.
The next 15km is generally downhill, through Lythrodontas, then right towards Delikipos through the Lythrodontas forest. Spot the place cashing in on the eco-tourism boom, at least this one looks authentic and to be using natural materials. The jacket keeps me warm and the odd little uphill bursts remind my legs how to turn. Tis the season for olive picking, groups of labourers work in fields filling buckets with a fruit for which the country is renowned. Other fields sit waiting, nets laid below trees ready to catch the harvest when it is picked. The scent of woodsmoke comes and goes. I know it’s not a healthy smell nowadays, but I love it and relish the moments. It signifies many of the Cypriot villages as well as childhood memories.
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Left at the road end takes me around the back of Delikipos and keeps me off the main road for a while longer. Passing an army camp, I am led to my crossing point for Kornos. The village is typically mish-mash but easy to navigate. Above the village I bear left, go under the motorway and cross back onto F106 for the final 7km up Stavrovouni.
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​The first two km are now dry and dusty, this makes spotting potholes, caused by the constant heavy goods traffic, much easier. The noise of the quarry is all around as are the constant wagons passing by me. It is not a particularly pleasant part and my desire to get past it likely helps me increase my average speed. Beyond the Agia Vavara turning it turns into a calm, almost serene road. The state of the road still has a lot to be desired but there are no more lorries. In fact, only a handful of cars pass me on this 5km climb.
Stavrovouni monastery is located at the peak of the hill of the same name. It can be seen from miles around and puts me in mind of a medieval castle location. Its name literally means holy cross on the hill. A fragment of the holy cross is within the monastery itself. It is the oldest recorded monastery on the island and one of the oldest in the world.
The climb is tough, it hits 9% at points and makes me work for the whole way. This isn’t surprising when I consider the view from the bottom. With 2km to go I round a left bend and the vista of Larnaca opens out to my right below, it is a stunning view. Don’t look to your objective up to the left, you’ll only upset yourself. With 1 km to go the gradient seems to inch up, through the trees, down to my right I see the quarry. It’s a real blot on the landscape. At the top, now 750m above sea level, I enjoy the views, the town, villages, the sea and a multitude of paths and roads below. It is a real high point to finish the ride, well nearly. I roll back down to my start point 5km below. The state of the roads means my bike is shaking and rattling most of the way. Must remember to check everything is tight when I wash that mud off I tell myself.
